Huaraz is a mountain climber's mecca, with many jagged
peaks above 20k ft -including the tallest mountain in South America. We
connected with a local mountain bike guide who took us for three days
of exploring the surrounding area. The trails were scrappy, but always
framed by a beautiful panorama of jagged white peaks. Aggressive dogs
were present whenever the trails passed through areas of homes, and even
sweet Eileen learned how to stare them down - they were all bark and no
bite.
Our other goal for the area was the four-day Santa Cruz
trek. Camping and hiking among the massive 20k peaks was stunning. It
would be a phenomenal place to paraglide - to effortlessly traverse the
valleys and explore the massive walls up close (another trip I
suppose). Our second day involved hiking over a 15.7k pass, and the air
was so thin our pace slowed to near a crawl. My initial euphoria at
the top was eventually replaced with a bit of nausea and headache, and
eventually that night at the 13k ft camp, chills. I guess I was not
acclimatized enough for this altitude (especially after four days in the
jungle at sea level). I even had a bit of lower chest pain, which I
dismissed until I felt it again the next day at a 15k ft scenic lake.
Could this be the start of mild pulmonary edema? I don't know, but I
don't think I'll plan to trek above 15k again in the future - that is
probably my safe limit. (Note that Eileen did not suffer from altitude
sickness at any point - she's a better mountaineer than I.)
Fortunately, I felt better the next day, so I could enjoy
the magnificent scenery. Back to town, and on to our next destination
(via taxi, plane, taxi, bus, and taxi)...
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